The Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), a prominent independent Swiss institution established in 1973, has introduced a significant new benchmark for watch precision: the "Excellence Chronometer" certification. This advanced tier goes beyond their long-standing chronometer standard, offering a more rigorous evaluation process for high-end timepieces. The move reflects the changing landscape of horological standards, seeking to provide consumers with enhanced assurances regarding a watch's accuracy, real-world performance, and durability.
For decades, COSC has been the primary arbiter of precision for a substantial portion of Swiss watches, with approximately 40% of all Swiss movements undergoing their certification. This traditional process involves subjecting uncased movements to a 12-to-20-day testing regimen based on the ISO 3159 standard. Key criteria include mean daily rate, mean variation, maximum variation, positional differences, and temperature effects. A watch achieves chronometer status if its mean daily rate falls within a -4 to +6 seconds deviation. Upon successful completion, these movements are returned to manufacturers for encasing, with some brands like Rolex conducting further in-house tests.
The introduction of the Excellence Chronometer certification signifies COSC's response to the rising bar set by other industry benchmarks, such as Rolex's Superlative Chronometer and METAS Master Chronometer. This new level mandates that after undergoing the initial chronometer tests as uncased movements, the cased watches are returned to COSC for a second, more demanding round of evaluations. These additional tests require a tighter mean daily rate of -2 to +4 seconds. Furthermore, watches are tested for their performance under simulated human wear using a moving robot for 24 hours. A crucial addition is the assessment of resistance to magnetic fields up to 200 gauss, a level chosen to reflect everyday exposure from common electronic devices. Finally, the certified watch must also demonstrate its declared power reserve. This comprehensive approach ensures improved accuracy, practical performance, magnetic resilience, and verified power reserve.
This strategic enhancement by COSC appears to be a sensible development for the watch industry, driven by consumer expectations and competitive pressures. While some might question why the accuracy margin of -2 to +4 seconds isn't even stricter, aligning with or surpassing METAS's 0 to +5 seconds, COSC likely considered a balance between aspirational standards and the practical capabilities of a wider range of high-quality movements. A significantly narrower margin could drastically limit the number of calibers eligible for certification. The logistical implications are also substantial; the repeated transport and testing of movements, coupled with a higher probability of needing adjustments and retesting, will inevitably increase costs. COSC has indicated that the fee for Excellence certification is approximately 3 to 3.5 times higher than the standard chronometer certification. This increased cost, alongside potential manufacturing adjustments, is expected to influence the final retail price of certified timepieces.
The value proposition of such advanced certifications for both brands and consumers remains a pertinent question. While precision and reliable performance are undeniably important attributes in watchmaking, a certification, even an advanced one, captures a watch's performance at a specific moment in time. Factors like prolonged storage can alter a watch's adherence to these strict limits. Investments in aesthetic finishing or other durable specifications offer a more enduring value compared to the transient nature of certification at a single point. As COSC begins pilot programs with selected brands in March, leading up to a public announcement at Watches and Wonders in April and widespread availability by October 2026, the industry will keenly observe which brands embrace this new standard and how it shapes perceptions of their offerings.