In August 1961, a group of four adventurous friends embarked on an extraordinary fishing journey to the remote and largely unexplored Lake Mesgouez in northern Quebec. Their quest, initially a gamble based on limited information, quickly transformed into a rewarding expedition, yielding an abundance of brook trout, pike, and walleyes. Beyond the thrill of the catch, the trip offered a deep immersion into the Canadian wilderness, complete with stunning natural landscapes, the challenges of navigating uncharted territories, and a poignant encounter with the vestiges of a previous, tragic expedition. This narrative captures the essence of a true outdoor adventure, blending the excitement of discovery with the serene beauty and occasional harsh realities of the wild.
The venture began with a daring decision. Back at Cache Lake, air service manager Reg Phillips offered a tantalizing but uncertain prospect: Lake Mesgouez, a place he'd never personally fished, yet believed held great promise. Undeterred by the lack of guarantees, the four companions—Ed Lukens, Bud Carpenter, Stan Karboski, and the narrator (a Syracuse lawyer)—resolved to explore this unknown destination. Their journey required two Beaver float planes, each carrying a canoe, to transport them 118 miles into the bush for an extended stay. This annual tradition for Ed and the narrator typically involved spontaneous choices of fishing locales, relying on their accumulated gear and experience rather than guides. Their ultimate destination, Lake Mesgouez, was strategically chosen for its potential, nestled within the Rupert River system in northern Quebec, approximately 450 miles north of the U.S. border and 120 miles from the nearest settlement. This region, accessible only by air or canoe, is primarily inhabited by semi-nomadic Cree, adding to its untamed allure.
Upon arrival, guided by Reg's instructions to a sandy island with a natural harbor, the group utilized a Polaroid camera from a high altitude to map the poorly charted area. This technique, coupled with Ed's keen observations through binoculars, proved invaluable for navigating the dense wilderness. Landing at their chosen campsite, the immensity of the remote landscape became palpable. Their only link to the outside world was a small, dry-cell-powered transceiver radio, rented from the air service. They were instructed to maintain daily contact, with a contingency plan for a search and rescue operation if communication ceased for 15 days. Paul Mailhot, the dispatcher, assured them of the radio's reliability, highlighting its frequent use by other bush parties, including the Cree, over significant distances. Settling into their camp, marked by the remnants of an old Indian site, the team established their 10x12 wall tent. Their first evening's fishing attempts near the camp were fruitless, leaving them to ponder the success of their ambitious endeavor as they retired for the night.
The following morning brought renewed determination. Ed, eager to explore the rapids, led the group to a promising stretch of fast-moving water near the lake's outlet. There, their gamble paid off handsomely, as they quickly reeled in several brook trout weighing between three and five pounds, cementing their confidence in the location's fishing potential. Traditional red-and-white or gold lures proved most effective. Later, venturing to the opposite shore, Stan and the narrator landed several eight-pound pike and encountered a walleye, further confirming the richness of the lake's aquatic life. After a midday meal back at camp, the group utilized their radio to report their success to Cache Lake, establishing a clear line of communication. Their adventures continued, leading them downstream through the rocky neck of the river. A mysterious milk tin, marked with Indian characters, hinted at past travelers. Farther on, the roar of rapids signaled even more productive fishing grounds, where numerous brook trout, ranging from ten inches to three pounds, eagerly took their lures. The discovery of a broken paddle, a can of motor oil, and other debris scattered along the shore provided a somber clue to a past canoe mishap, likely a tragic capsizing two months prior. This grim finding was later confirmed through radio contact with Paul, who informed them of a canoe accident involving two drowned Cree, one of whom remained unrecovered. A subsequent exploration near the eastern end of Lake Mesgouez revealed a fresh grave with a hand-carved marker, possibly belonging to one of the victims. Despite these discoveries, the fishing remained exceptional, with some areas yielding impressive catches of four to five-pound trout, and Ed even snagging a fifteen-pound pike. The week progressed with continued success, although the fish's interest waned slightly towards the end. Stan, in particular, became adept at catching large walleyes, which, along with the northern pike, provided excellent meals. The clear autumn days brought pleasant weather, free from insects, though fishing became more challenging during periods of low water. Their island campsite proved to be ideal, offering abundant firewood and a perfect beach for sunbathing and launching canoes. The group even constructed a serviceable table and benches, enhancing their wilderness experience. Evenings were often graced with spectacular auroral displays, and the radio provided snippets of life from other distant camps. Magnetic disturbances briefly interrupted their radio contact, but they eventually re-established communication to arrange their departure. Despite a weather delay, both planes eventually arrived, carrying the four friends and their gear back from their memorable, trout-filled adventure.
This expedition into the northern Quebec wilderness was a testament to the rewards of daring exploration. It highlighted not only the region's remarkable fishing opportunities, particularly for brook trout, pike, and walleyes, but also the profound beauty and occasional harsh realities of untamed nature. The journey, rich with personal achievements, communal bonds, and historical echoes, underscored the timeless allure of venturing into the unknown and returning with unforgettable stories.