Crafted Innovation: Where Design Meets Precision
The Latest Evolution: Unveiling the b/1.3r
Toledano & Chan has just introduced its latest timepiece, the b/1.3r, marking their fourth significant launch within two years. This new model features a complete titanium case, a refined case size, and a distinctive 18k solid-gold dial showcasing an intricate ripple pattern. The brand's initial b/1 series, launched in 2024, was praised for its creative design amidst a wave of less innovative releases. Its angular and sculptural case, drawing inspiration from Marcel Breuer's architectural work, resonated well with enthusiasts seeking unique vintage-inspired watches. This new iteration, while carrying a higher price point, continues to impress with its thoughtful enhancements.
Design Refinements and Material Innovations
While the b/1.3r retains the familiar aesthetic of its predecessors, several key details set it apart. Notably, the watch's width has been subtly reduced from 33.5mm to 32mm, a counter-trend in an industry often leaning towards larger timepieces. The use of titanium for both the case and bracelet significantly reduces weight, a frequent request from consumers following earlier models. The watch's thickness ranges from 8.8mm (excluding the crystal at its thinnest) to 12.4mm (at its thickest point, including the faceted, angled sapphire crystal—a new feature not present in the first release).
Power, Price, and Exclusivity
Under the hood, the b/1.3r is powered by a Sellita SW100 automatic movement, offering a reliable 42-hour power reserve. The retail price of $10,200 reflects the increased cost of gold for the dials, the complex machining and finishing required for the titanium components, and the shift to Swiss manufacturing for this model. This limited edition comprises 350 pieces and will be available for purchase on February 12th at 9:00 AM EST.
A Testament to Vision and Conviction
This release stands out as a personal favorite, particularly from a relatively young brand that has rapidly achieved recognition in the horological world. Co-founder Phil Toledano's distinct and often unconventional taste is a driving force behind the brand's appeal. His ability to articulate the "why" behind each design—a depth of conviction often lacking in new watch brands—is a significant asset. Unlike many brands that merely tweak existing designs, Toledano & Chan genuinely carves out a niche with meticulously executed and thoughtfully conceived timepieces.
The Enduring Appeal of Distinctive Design
The watches evoke a sense of desire, largely due to the evident thought and care invested in their design and market introduction. While the price increase is substantial, it is justified by the complex manufacturing of the titanium case and bracelet, which are far more intricate than those of a standard dive watch. Despite the subtle size reduction, the b/1.3r maintains its aesthetic impact. The author expresses confidence in wearing a smaller watch and finds no issues with legibility, viewing any perceived "oddness" as a subjective opinion rather than a personal failing. Ultimately, the bold aesthetics prompt introspection, challenging the wearer to align with such a statement piece.